hand-roll

hand-roll v.  [from obs. mainstream slang `hand-rolled' in
   opposition to `ready-made', referring to cigarettes] To
   perform a normally automated software installation or configuration
   process {by hand}; implies that the normal process failed due to
   bugs in the configurator or was defeated by something exceptional
   in the local environment.  "The worst thing about being a gateway
   between four different nets is having to hand-roll a new sendmail
   configuration every time any of them upgrades."